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Mornings Quick Climb

http://www.elements.gb.net               29th/12/2012

JJ Keeping the faith and stomping in to Sneachda, had to admit I had my doubts.

JJ Keeping the faith and stomping into Sneachda, had to admit I had my doubts.

After getting back from the cinema and Inverness yesterday evening and having a look at the forecast I was struggling to get the motivation to commit to climbing the next day. 100mph winds, warm temps and needing to sort and pack a lot of stuff for heading out to the Alps, but some how Jon managed to convince me.

Amazed to see how much white stuff had held on Faciall Buttress.

Amazed to see how much white stuff had held on Faciall Buttress.

As we walked in, the early morning gloom showed black crags ahead and what looked like black crags in Lochan. It’s fair to say I was dragging my feet as we walked in, questioning why I’d gotten up at 0620 to take a heavy bag for a semi wintery walk.

With only one runner in my 35m pitch, every time you hit turf it came as a welcome placement.

With only one runner at 5m in my 35m pitch, every time you hit turf it came as a welcome placement.

The climbing was good, if not a bit run out on my middle pitch. There’s loads of ice about, it’s still not quite bomber, more a mixture of ice, snow and crud.

Looking into a semi stripped No.4 Buttress

Looking into a semi stripped No.4 Buttress

Our route 'Rampant' IV-5*, heads through the whitest of ground on the buttress. You can see a team following our clearing!

Our route ‘Rampant’ IV-5*, heads through the whitest of ground on the buttress. You can just about see a team following our clearing!

A better view of the route.

A better view of the route. 

So from car to car 4hrs 15mins, back before 1130, with a nice route in the bag. The joys of living in Aviemore.

I’m off out to the Alps for two weeks for some Guides training, 3 days of ski techniques, 1 day ski induction / test, 5 days of avalanche training and a days ice climbing teaching. With a few days off to enjoy New Year, ski and maybe climb some ice.

Hope everyone has a great New Year and all the best for 2013.

Cheers

Chadders 🙂

 

 

 

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