First route of the winter done, not the hardest route but definitely the whitest route we could find in the Corrie. There where a coupe of other teams out, one on ‘Third Man 4-6’ and the other team disappeared between number three and four buttress.
The conditions where certainly quite fickle, with one buttress looking black and the next looking white. Once you got up high and looked at some different aspects, again some white and some black. There were routes to do you just had to be selective and the weather was fine (a rare novelty in Scottish winter climbing).
I had to make it back in time for the bank so Dunc and I chose ‘Central Crack Route 4-5’ as our winter warm up. We quickly realised that it was proper winter when we both endured super cold hands in a very short space of time whilst gearing up. Closely followed by our perverted winter friend the ‘Hot Aches’. Something that you’ll never miss but know will be with you through out the winter 😦
The route it’s self was good, awkward and thrutchy at the start but soon eases off to steadier ground above. We opted for a few direct corners to bump the grade and standard of climbing up, all really enjoyable. The only sting in the tail was the exit. A large amount of snow had blown in and managed to attach it’s self vertically to the exit blocks! Some levitation and very tenuous climbing was required to access the plateau. Welcome back to winter! 🙂
Off back out tomorrow to see what’s going on. Think the weathers looking best in the East so may just head back in to Lochan?