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Success on the West Ridge of Schideggwetterhorm

A.K.A. Slap’big’sweating’horn

What a route, 1100m of limestone climbing, taking two days of near non stop climbing form 7am to 7pm both days. We had two bivi’s on route, the second one due to failing light and wanting to cross the Glacier’s when it was re-frozen.

The route is stunning, following a flying line near straight up the crest of the West Ridge, over looking Grindelwald. I remember driving past it a couple of years ago with my wife (Deziree) and looking up thinking no way will I ever want to climb up there! That’s the best thing about Alpine starts (4am) you can’t see what your doing until your well on your way.

To be fare though the climbing is not all good! Like most limestone big mountain routes it has more than it’s fare share on loose, snappy, friable, SCARY rock.

Knowing that we where going to bivi we both carried some extra kit, this was great for keeping warm on the rock ledges but a real hindrance when the climbing was steep or constricted.

Once up the elation of success was short lived once we started the even more involved decent, did I mention the loose rock? Trying to find the abseil posts was a mission on it’s own but it all came together in the end. Landing us at the start of the Glacier crossings.

Walking up this morning after a dinner of one cup a soup shared between two and a hand full of peanuts. All we could think about was the hut and breakfast. This came after several more abseils and a booming Glacier crossing. Food has never tasted better and flat firm ground never felt so good.

The climbing is great and the line stunning, it is a full bore mountain route not to be underestimated but well worth all the excitement

Ken'Dog getting fully involved in some roof action!

Bivi No.1 (4 star at least!)

Pick a line 1100m high straight up the most continuous ridge and thats it. Wild!

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3 responses to “Success on the West Ridge of Schideggwetterhorm

  1. John A ⋅

    What a great adventure – you didn’t mention whats next this time!

  2. Rudders ⋅

    well in chadders and kg, hope you got my supportive text!!

  3. Deziree Wilson ⋅

    Well done guys! Looks amazing. 🙂 x

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